The Congo wars had been progressing for a few years but the hospital known as CME Nyankunde had remained untouched. By far the best equipped hospital in north east Congo with 400 beds and 400 employees, there was a policy at the hospital of providing care to everyone. The Congo conflicts have been complex and fed by many factors in different parts of the country, but in the village of Nyankunde it was a local tribal conflict which was encouraged by the surrounding lawlessness.

The immediate trigger for the massacre at Nyankunde was a local chief who wanted to cleanse the village of 17,000 of another tribe. At his direction, 5,000 people were displaced out of the town and more were threatened. Further, this chief prevented access to the hospital, CME Nyankunde, to the other tribe, access which previously had been fully available. In retaliation, 100 heavily armed men of the displaced tribe with thousands of supporting tribesmen attacked Nyankunde on September 5, 2002. 1,500 were slaughtered, staff and patients alike. Although an innocent victim of the violence, the hospital was completely ransacked and destroyed. Many thousands fled through the jungle to the nearest large town of Oicha. There were six maternal deliveries made in the adjacent forests during the exodus.

Dr Philip Wood was at the hospital at the time. He heard the gun shoots, took in several people at his home for shelter and locked up his house. Gunmen banged on the door and demanded money and entrance. Dr Wood knew that entrance would mean the death of those he was hiding. He responded by saying he had no money there, that he wasn’t letting them in, but he would pray for them. After he closed his eyes to pray, he realized the gunmen had moved on.

The next day, Dr Wood learned that MAF (Mission Aviation Fellowship) had arranged evacuation flights out. Leaving his house, he saw scores of people he knew well lying dead on the ground. MAF took him to Bunia where he met with UN officials who, to put it mildly, were useless. Dr Wood proceeded to Oicha (just north of Beni) where he was instrumental in aiding the pre-existing patients and new casualties now streaming in from Nyankunde.

The town and hospital area was mined by the attacking tribal militia. (Who supplied them?) South African UN peacekeepers, who seem to be a completely different lot from the rest of the UN peacekeepers in Congo, eventually de-mined the town and residents slowly returned. But the village has yet to return to its former size.

CME rushed to re-establish the destroyed CME Nyankunde hospital in nearby Beni, expanding thereafter to Bunia. CME Nyankunde reopened in 2005 but as a shadow of its former self. The rebuilding undertaken since then has been impressive. A new building hosting operating room and intensive care facilities which is being funded by Samaritan’s Purse will be among the finest in the country.

Washing clothes

Washing clothes as we approach Nyankunde

The beautiful drive into Nyankunde

The beautiful drive into Nyankunde

Joseph Rona Katawanga met us in Nyankunde, along with the Nyankunde cashier

Joseph Rona Katawanga met us in Nyankunde, along with the Nyankunde cashier

One of many buildings still destroyed

One of many buildings still destroyed

While much of Nyankunde has been rebuilt, much remains to be done

While much of Nyankunde has been rebuilt, much remains to be done

We had excellent discussions today with the Executive Director Dr Mike Upio Nzeni, universally known as Dr Mike. This impressive and brave doctor had relatives killed in the massacre and was the first doctor to return to Nyankunde. Dr Mike personally insisted that the South African soldiers teach him how to decommission hidden mines, claiming that Congolese need to be responsible for clearing the area, not foreigners.  At great personal risk, he proceeded to clear the hospital area of the lethal mines. Today he leads CME Nyankunde (succeeding Dr Wood) which from the ashes now has three hospitals, 240 beds, 270 employees, pharmacies, labs and hopes for significant expansions.

Dr. Mike Upio Nzeni, Executive Director of CME Nyankunde, or simply Dr. Mike

Dr. Mike Upio Nzeni, Executive Director of CME Nyankunde, or simply Dr. Mike

Looking down on Nyankunde. The largest building is the new operating room being built by Samaritan's Purse.

Looking down on Nyankunde. The largest building is the new operating room being built by Samaritan’s Purse.

Looking northwards from the hill behind Nyankunde

Looking northwards from the hill behind Nyankunde

Dr. Mike showing us the new operating room under construction

Dr. Mike showing us the new operating room under construction

A rebuilt but quieter ward

A rebuilt but quieter ward

Chris Phillips, universally known as Tata (i.e. Grandmother, a name of high respect). A physiotherapist from UK has been volunteering at CME since 2008.

Chris Phillips, universally known as Tate (i.e. Auntie, a name of high respect). A physiotherapist from the UK, she has been volunteering at CME since 2008.

For more information on Chris, please visit the Friends of CME website:
http://www.friendsofcme.com/physio.php

A girl waving at us (being muzungu) while we drive through Nyankunde, but notice the bullet holes

A girl waving at us (being muzungu) while we drive through Nyankunde but notice the bullet holes

A quick stop at the market on the road back to Bunia

A quick stop at the market on the road back to Bunia

Michael Ben negotiating for mangoes on the road to Bunia

Michael Ben negotiating for mangoes on the road to Bunia

It wasn't a happy dance, but a pleased girl nonetheless

It wasn’t a happy dance like on pineapple purchases near Butembo, but a pleased girl nonetheless